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Man, thanks for sharing your experience with the next generations. It's genuinely sad to see knowledge being lost and the quality of tradesmanship dropping with time.

This dude is.....well, life goals..😊

I'm new to this channel but this is such a well put-together form of content. Its super informative to those who aren't familiar with woodworking, but it's also done in a way that's interesting and fun. Thank you, WorkshopCompanion

In year 8 woodwork class, we made cheesboards, and I remember spending like, 4 lessons sanding mine meticulously to 2000, and I still use that board to this day because even if I get sauces on it, it's easy to wash and rarely stains.

Brilliant knowledge ... thx!

Thank you, useful stranger on the internet!

What would happen if someone started lignin my balls?

Do you have any suggestions for preventing tearout with white oak cross cuts in a production setting? I work in a cooperage producing whiskey barrels for buffalo trace. White oak, quarter sawn (or rift) staves are cut to length, producing tearout that plagues our fancy pants machines. We had a saw machine before that just chopped the the ends off cleanly but the end pieces accumulated and filled a hopper that must be changed, and so a new system was put in. This new saw hogs off the end piece as it's cut, and instead of a hopper catching blocks the entire mess is sucked away with a vacuum system as dust. The new saws with their "hog head" blades leave tearout that causes a camera down the line to mistakenly identify the staves as being uncut. The saw runs with continuously moving feed chains, chopping about 23 pcs per minute. The old saw ran at about 28. So the whole crew is fed up with the tearout and the decreased productivity. I've suggested decreasing the space between lugs (since there's about 8 inches of gap beyond what we need) to allow for decreasing the infeed speed while maintaining the output frequency, but I've no idea if that would work. My gut says it couldn't hurt to try.

I’m not sure why i watched this video… i never really worked with wood and i don’t have plans to work on wood in the future… this information will be collected in the “not sure if i will ever need it but if i do then it’s here” part of my brain.

Yes!

What if you put another piece of wood on top of it?

How can you possibly give this video a 'thumbs down'? The man is spitting jewels

IL stick with polyurethane it lasts longer and I life near the sea it will be plasticy and I'm not eating off it but it's better than using wax each year.

It has been 20 years since I've needed to do woodworking. And yet, I find myself saving this video just in case.

I swear I smell wood glue watching this.

Or you can do multiple passes, one very low at the start, on both sides, to open the veneer, and then the third one across

I dont get any tearout. I use a laser cutter. Eat my dust, suckers.

10/10 teacher voice

...or you just put some left over plank, and old book you're willing to ruin and have that on top! The cut will be clean... This is something I learned in woodshop in 4:th grade school 🤷🏻‍♂️

I found the pocket screw joint to be not good. The pocket dowel joint is a good idea.

I go 320 on nice wood. 220 on nothing special.

pocket joints are to joinery as the 4-in-hand knot is to neck ties 😋😕

Set the blade super low and do a score cut?

I'll be even more impressed if you can balance those cpins on a piece of wood while it's being cut on that table saw.

might just be crazy enough to work

I will never use this knowledge in my life I love it

Perfect RUclips video. Thank you.

Could you lower the blade just enough so it scores the top side then flip it and recut all the way through?

Why not just put a scrap piece of wood on top as you cut? Is this unsafe? Sorry it’s been a while since I was last in shop class

I never knew thats what link belts were for, im an electrician so ive seen em around the shop but i always assumed they were for fastening loads to pallets or something haha

When I did cabinets for a while they said no more than 120. The grain accepts the stain best with 120.

Thanks for rambling your wood neard suff to me old guy.

I do not do any work with plywood and have never seen this man’s videos but I stayed for the whole short and will continue watching with how interesting this video was.

Thanks g

Omg, THANK YOU! That’s such a good tip, and I’ve never heard it before. 🥰

I have a Shopsmith mark VII, very cool old machine. The mark V is a smoother machine and easier to use so I’d recommend it to a Shopsmith newby.

Polish is Polish, not cleaner... Cleaner is sanding down restaning, sealing and lacquering...10+ years on hayneedle..wayfair, etsy, jet, walmart houzz , Amazon brick and morters andsales reps across us to ca father since 82 big orders not a little pop shop

Silicone is the bane of every finishing trade's existence.

Remember folks breaking the edges doesn't mean rounding it

Remember kids, never fight against the grain. It will win.

My mind is blown. 😮. I would have never guessed that. Can you be my dad?

Ill use this trick next time i grab some eco-friendly wood veneers while im picking up galvanized square steel beams from my aunt!

220 typically cuts fine enough that the naked eye doesn't see the lines when you work up through the numbers properly. Sand by eye ,not be feel . It can feel totally smooth and still look rough. Every time you transition to a finer grit, you sand until there is no visible cut marks from the previous size.

🤯😮

The link makes sense, the little gaps and interlink allow the force to be spread around a bit and get weaker then I assume

I don't even do woodworking but here I am

Are the wood veneers eco-friendly??

Wow. This is great advice. That coin trick..

How about a sacrificial block

Thanks for the advice Geppetto